Bariloche's Craft Beer Scene: The Best CervecerÃas After a Day on the Mountain
Bariloche has one of the best craft beer cultures in Argentina. Here is where to find it after skiing, and what to order.
Bariloche has a reputation for chocolate. Deservedly -- the Swiss-influenced chocolate tradition here goes back over a century and produces genuinely good results. What visitors often discover on arrival is that the beer is just as serious, possibly more so, and that the *cervecerÃas* along the lakefront are among the best places to spend an evening after a day on the mountain.
Why Bariloche and craft beer
The connection is practical as much as cultural. The Patagonian water -- cold, mineral-light, fed by snowmelt -- is excellent for brewing. The German and Swiss settlers who arrived in the late 19th century brought beer-making traditions with them and found an environment that suited them well. The craft movement that built across Argentina in the 2000s found particularly fertile ground in Bariloche, which now has more independent breweries per capita than any other city in the country.
This is not marketing. Walk the lakefront on a Thursday evening in July and count the number of places with conditioning tanks visible through the window. There are eight within two kilometres.
Where to go
Blest is the oldest and most established. It has been brewing since 1993 and sits at the western end of the lakefront with views across Nahuel Huapi. The Bock is the thing to order in winter -- dark, malt-forward, low bitterness, exactly what ski legs want after a cold day. It is busy on weekends and quieter on weekday evenings. If you only go to one place, this is the one.
Patagonia (the brewery, not the outdoor brand) has a space on the waterfront that is larger and more polished. It works well for groups -- the table arrangement handles eight or ten people without the squeeze that smaller places require. The Weisse is well made. The food is reliable rather than memorable, which is fine if the point is beer and conversation.
Manush is the one that locals tend to mention when you ask where to go if you are not a tourist. It is smaller, a few blocks from the main strip, with a rotating tap list that changes through the season. The bartenders can tell you what is on and why. If you want to understand what the brewers in Bariloche are actually experimenting with, this is where that conversation happens.
CervecerÃa Berlina is based 80 kilometres north at Villa La Angostura. If you are skiing at Cerro Bayo for any of your days, the taproom in the village is worth stopping at on the way back. The Berlina Roja is one of the better red ales made in Argentina.
When to go
The best evenings are Tuesday through Thursday. Friday and Saturday bring visitors from Buenos Aires and the lakefront gets crowded. Monday is quiet but some smaller places are closed. A Tuesday evening at Blest in July, arriving at 7pm and ordering the Bock, is one of the more pleasant off-mountain hours Bariloche offers.
Most *cervecerÃas* open at noon and close around midnight. Some serve food. If you want a full evening rather than just a beer, combine dinner at a *parrilla* -- we recommend La Fonda del Tio or El Boliche de Alberto -- with a post-dinner stop at Blest or Manush. This is the local pattern and it works. Our eating and drinking guide covers the restaurant side in more detail.
What to order
Patagonian craft beer skews darker and maltier than the Buenos Aires pale lager tradition. In winter, ask what the seasonal dark offering is -- Bocks, Dunkels, and Baltic Porters appear on tap from June onward and are better suited to cold evenings than IPAs. If you are uncertain, a sampler paddle is standard practice at most places. Four or five small pours of the current range gives you a useful orientation and the bar staff will tell you which ones are worth returning to.
Beer and the ski week
There is a practical consideration that the *cervecerÃas* do not advertise: altitude and cold air mean the beer goes further than you expect. Two pints and an early bed is usually the right call on a ski week. The mountain is still there in the morning and how well you sleep affects how good the first run feels.
Our standard recommendation for a seven-day trip: one evening at Blest with the group, one evening trying whichever smaller place has caught your attention, and the rest of the evenings eating early and resting properly. The beer is good enough that it does not need to be a nightly commitment to be worth the trip.
If you want to plan the full week -- on-mountain days, rest days, evenings in town -- tell us how you ski and what you are after and we will build the schedule around it.