Esquel and La Trochita: A Ski Day Trip Plus the Old Patagonian Express

Esquel is the best base for skiing La Hoya and riding La Trochita, the 750 mm narrow-gauge steam train nicknamed the Old Patagonian Express. La Hoya sits about 15 km from town, so you can ski a full morning, be back in Esquel by mid-afternoon and still have the evening for the town's cafes. Most visitors give Esquel two to three nights, which is enough for two ski days and one day of sightseeing.

Quick Answer: Esquel in one glance

• Resort: La Hoya, about 15 km from Esquel, small and uncrowded
• Famous for: La Trochita steam train, Welsh heritage in nearby Trevelin
• Ideal stay: 2-3 nights, ideally added to a Bariloche trip
• Getting there: Flight to Esquel airport or a long road transfer of roughly 280 km from Bariloche
• Best for: Skiers who want quiet slopes and a cultural day off

What is La Trochita and why do skiers visit it?

La Trochita is a historic steam railway whose narrow tracks once linked Ingeniero Jacobacci and Esquel across the Patagonian steppe. Today the heritage service gives visitors a short ride from Esquel station in vintage wooden carriages pulled by a steam locomotive. It is the most photogenic rest-day activity in the region, and it fits neatly around a ski schedule because the excursions run on set days, so you can plan skiing on the other ones.

The train is why many travellers end up in Esquel at all. Paul Theroux made the Old Patagonian Express famous in his travel writing, and the carriages, the whistle and the smell of coal smoke still deliver on the reputation. Check the current timetable before you book, because heritage services run to a reduced schedule and can change with the season.

How good is the skiing at La Hoya?

La Hoya is a small, friendly resort with a handful of lifts, and its charm is the absence of queues. Compared with Cerro Catedral, which has 120+ marked runs across 1,200 hectares, La Hoya is a fraction of the size, and that is exactly the appeal for families, beginners and anyone who wants a relaxed day. Our fuller profile is in La Hoya, Esquel: The Quiet Side of Patagonian Skiing.

Two points set expectations honestly:

• La Hoya is a mid-size local mountain, not an expert destination. Strong skiers will exhaust it in two days.
• Snow cover depends on the year. In lean winters the lower terrain thins out first, so aim for July or August.

How do I get from Bariloche to Esquel?

The practical options are a flight, a private transfer or a rental car. The road distance from Bariloche to Esquel is roughly 280 km, and a private transfer takes around four hours with stops. Flying is quicker when schedules line up, but services to Esquel are limited, so confirm the timetable before you plan the rest of the trip.

For most guests we recommend one of these routes:

1. Fly into Buenos Aires, connect to Bariloche, ski Catedral, then drive south to Esquel for the final two nights.
2. Fly into Esquel directly if flights run, ski La Hoya first and head north to Bariloche afterwards.
3. Do the full loop as part of a multi-resort trip, as laid out in Three Resorts, One Trip.

What else is there to do around Esquel?

Beyond the train, the best add-on is Trevelin, about 24 km away, a village founded by Welsh settlers where you can still sit down to a proper Welsh tea with cake. Los Alerces National Park, around 50 km from Esquel, protects ancient alerce forests and is a good snowy photography day when the lakes are calm.

A sensible three-night plan looks like this:

1. Day one: arrive, wander the town centre, early dinner.
2. Day two: full ski day at La Hoya.
3. Day three: La Trochita in the morning, Trevelin for lunch and Welsh tea.
4. Day four: second ski day or an easy drive to the airport.

Is Esquel better than Bariloche for a ski trip?

Esquel is not better than Bariloche, it is different. Bariloche offers far more terrain, more hotels, a bigger dining scene and the full Catedral lift network. Esquel offers calm, lower prices and a sense of old Patagonia that the bigger town has largely lost.

• Bariloche and Cerro Catedral: 1,200 ha, huge dining and nightlife choice, best for all levels
• Esquel and La Hoya: small mountain, quiet slopes, best as a two-to-three night add-on

If you only have one week and want maximum skiing, stay in Bariloche. If you have ten days and like variety, add Esquel at the end.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I ride La Trochita and ski on the same day? It is possible in principle, but we do not recommend it. Keep the train for its own day so you are not rushing, and ski on the days it does not run.

Is La Hoya good for beginners? Yes. The small scale, short lift lines and gentle terrain make it comfortable for first-timers and families. For general planning, see our guide for first-time skiers in Argentina.

Do I need a car in Esquel? Not strictly. Taxis and transfers cover the 15 km to La Hoya, but a car gives you freedom for Trevelin and Los Alerces. Winter driving needs chains and confidence on snowy roads.

Is Esquel worth the detour from Bariloche? For skiers with 9-10 days, yes, mainly for the cultural contrast. For a one-week trip, Bariloche alone is enough.

This guide was written by the Ski Patagonia Co. team, based on many seasons of guiding at Cerro Catedral and years of planning multi-resort routes across Patagonia.

Thinking about adding Esquel to your trip? Tell us your dates and your level and we will build the route around you. Start here with Plan My Trip, or see how custom itineraries work.

Hero photo by Lucia Miloro on Unsplash